Tomatoes with whipped feta Recipe
The seasonal varieties from Spain and Italy are an entirely different affair from the ripe summer fruits we normally think of
In the past few years I have been buying my favourite tomatoes of the year in the winter. In January, February and March a few winter tomato varieties make their way to UK shores from Spain and Italy: the salty iberico tomato; the pert and pleasingly green-flavoured marinda; and the deeply red, sometimes almost black camone. They are an entirely different affair from the ripe summer fruits we think of when we talk about tomatoes. For me these have more interesting and individual flavours: you can taste the saltiness of the sea where some of them grow and the green scent of their vines comes through.
Serves 2
stale sourdough bread 50g
extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp (the best quality you can find), plus a little extra to drizzle on the bread
winter tomatoes 800g (I like the camone, marinda and iberico varieties, but any will work)
sherry vinegar ½ tbsp
unwaxed lemon 1, zest and juice
feta cheese 200g
thick Greek yoghurt 2 tbsp
nigella seeds 1 tsp
marjoram or oregano 4 sprigs, leaves picked
Preheat your oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7. Roughly tear the sourdough into pieces and pulse in a food processor until you have rough breadcrumbs. A bit of texture is good here, so try not to go too far, otherwise your crumb will be too fine and sandy.
Toss the breadcrumbs in a roasting tray with a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of salt and some black pepper. Place in the centre of the warmed oven for 4-5 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs have turned toasty and golden. Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes into slices and wedges, keeping them quite irregular and making the most of the shape of each tomato.
Place the lot in a bowl with the tablespoon of olive oil, the sherry vinegar, lemon zest and a couple of generous pinches of salt and some black pepper. Leave to one side while you get on with the feta. In a food processor, whip the feta and yoghurt together until the cheese is completely smooth and creamy. Taste and add salt if necessary, pepper and some of the lemon juice. Scoop into a bowl and top with the nigella seeds. Spoon the tomatoes with their olive oil and vinegar on to plates and dot the whipped feta around the tomatoes to fill in any empty spaces. Sprinkle over the breadcrumbs, scatter over the marjoram and drizzle with a little more oil.
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